German-Style Leavenworth, Washington Lures Tourists to the 'American Alps'

LEAVENWORTH, Wash. – In the 1960s, after much of Leavenworth's industry closed or was abandoned, a group of community leaders was tasked with finding a solution to the desolate downtown area.

Why not adopt a theme to attract visitors?

One of these leaders, who fought for the U.S. Army in Germany during World War II, was struck by the region's similarity to the Bavarian Alps.

A theme was born.

Businesses were encouraged to adopt traditional Bavarian decoration, adding stucco and raw wood to their exteriors, as well as flower boxes, balconies and benches.

Today, Leavenworth, at the foot of the Cascade Mountains in Washington, is perhaps the most German village this side of the Atlantic Ocean.

Strict zoning regulations ensure that even the local McDonald's and Starbucks use the words “Old World Bavarian Alpine” on their signs.

My husband and I stopped by on the way back to Seattle from North Cascades National Park to get a taste of southern Germany.

We weren't the only ones.

Some 60 years after the Bavarian theme was introduced, Leavenworth, with its 2,400 residents, attracts more than 3 million visitors each year who come to eat schnitzel, dance the polka, drink beer, shop for Christmas decorations and enjoy the spectacular scenery.

Read more: Undeterred: A first-time visitor's guide to Washington's remote North Cascades National Park

We only had an afternoon, but there are more than a dozen hotels in town and many people stay for a weekend or longer.

The town has a few museums, river tubing (in summer), a small ski hill (in winter), a reindeer farm, hiking trails, an adventure park, a theater and more.

But the predominant activity in Leavenworth seems to be strolling through the shops on Front Street and enjoying a giant pretzel, a beer and the festive atmosphere.

Our stops include:

* The Munich house for a pretzel and a pilsner, with a beer garden and mountain views.

* Kris Kringl, a huge Christmas shop filled with ornaments, lights, nativity scenes – even an “A Christmas Story” leg lamp.

* Andreas Keller Restaurant, where we enjoyed excellent schnitzel, sausages and spaetzle.

We also toured the Greater Leavenworth Museum and learned about the city's history, from the early Native American tribes to the arrival of the Great Northern Railway, the departure of the lumber industry, and finally the birth of a Bavarian town.

Below the history museum is the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum, with more than 9,000 versions of the decorative, functional devices, some dating back hundreds of years. The museum opened in 1995 as a private exhibition of the large collection of Arlene (“The Nutcracker Lady”) and George Wagner. It has grown since then.

There's a wide range of nutcrackers here, made from everything from ivory to Lego bricks, and in some unusual shapes, from George Washington to Harry Potter, dogs, frogs and of course lots of Claras and Mouse Kings. Admission is $5, but the gift shop is free.

Leavenworth is particularly popular at numerous annual special events, including Oktoberfest (October 4-5, 11-12, 18-19, 2024), Christmastown (the day after Thanksgiving through Christmas Eve), Mayfest, an alphorn festival, an accordion celebration, and more.

More information: Leavenworth.org